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The hut is a great foothold to reach different climbing routes; In fact, within a few minutes walk it is possible to reach the climbing routes listed here below. 

Punta Sfinge

Reachable by following the path to the Ligoncio Pass, it offers four climbing routes. Here is the link for some reports:

1. VIA SERENA (V-)

Location: north-east side

Length: about 200m

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Bolting: equipped with bolted belays. Nuts recommended.

Starting point: It is located on the east side of the south face at about 100m from the Bramani route. Descent: As for all the climbing routes of the Sfinge, the descent can be done by walking along the East ridge to a carving, from this point it is advisable to descend in double rope to the base of the slab. An alternative way down is along the Bramani route on the West side, recently equipped with bolted rings that allow you to reach the lower starting point.

2. VIA DINO FIORELLI (V)

Location: north-east side

Length: about 180m

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Bolting: Nuts and friends recommended.

Starting point: at the bottom of the north-east face.

Descent: as above.

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3. VIA BRAMANI (III)

Location: north-east side

Length: 250m

Climbing time: 2,30 hrs

Bolting:  quite good.

Starting point: on the north-east face.

 

4. SPIGOLO FIORELLI (V)

Location: north/north-east side

Length: 270 m

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Bolting: sufficiently equipped.

Starting point: on the left of the east edge.

 

5. VIA DEI MORBEGNESI (V)

Location: South-east side

Length: 280 m

Climbing time: 4 hrs

Bolting: sufficiently equipped.

Starting point: on the left of evident dihedral crack.

 

6. VIA AMOSSO-ELLI (V)

Location: South-east side

Length: 230 m

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Bolting: sufficiently equipped. Nuts and friends recommended.

Starting point: from the evident crack towards left from the overhangs.

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PuntaMilano.jpg

Punta Milano

Reachable by following the path to the Gianetti hut and turning left before climbing to the Barbacan ridge, it offers three climbing routes. Here is the link for some reports:

 

1. VIA NORMALE (III/IV)

Location: south-west ridge and south-east face

Length: 150m

Climbing time: 1,30 hrs

Bolting: well equipped.

Starting point: from little saddle on the south west edge.

Descent: by double ropes along the same route.

 

2. VIA HO CHI MIN (IV)

Location: South-east side

Length: 180m

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Difficulty: 4° grade

Bolting: sufficiently equipped. Nuts and lanyards recommended.

Starting point: right in the middle of the south east face.

Descent: by double ropes along the Normale route.

Pizzi dell'Oro - Pizzo dell'Oro Meridionale

SPIGOLO DELL'ORO (IV+)

Location: north-west side

Length: 300 m

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Bolting: sufficiently equipped. Nuts and lanyards recommended.

Starting point: by descending from the Ligoncio pass for about 150m, just before a grassy ledge, reach a slightly overhanging boulder, below which the route starts.

Descent: along easy path on the south ridge.

Punta Fiorelli

 

WAITING LIST (VI)

Location: 

Length: 230 m

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Bolting: equipped with essential bolting, nuts and friends reccomended to integrate. The first pitch is easy but difficult to integrate.

Starting point: passed the inclined initial slab, the route starts nearby a little step.

Descent: by double ropes along the same route.​

 

Punta Medaccio

TRIANGOLO D'ORO (VI)

Location: 

Length: 200 m

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Bolting: Nuts and friends recommended to integrate.

Starting point: at the bottom of the slab, right below a horizontal protrusion.

Descent: by double ropes along the same route.​

VOLVER (VI)

Location: 

Length: 200 m

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Bolting: probably the easiest route well bolted but bolts are a bit far one each other.

Starting point: a few meters to the left of the above route (to the right of two often wet black castings), on an inclined slab (spit with lanyard 10m above the ground).

Descent: by double ropes along the same route.​

Pilastro Sud-Est del Medaccio - Parete Sud

CAZZAROLA IN VAL MERDAROLA (VI+)

Location: South face

Length: 370 m

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Bolting: equipped with spits, included belays, but it is necessary to integrate.

Starting point: from the lowest point of the face climb to the right along the rocks to a black stripe, where the route starts.

Descent: by double ropes along the same route.​

 

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